Boys Trip 1.0 - LaPaz to Isla San Jose

So Nancy is off at "band camp".  Sounds like a perfect opportunity for a boys trip in the Sea of Cortez.
My brother-in-law JD is my compadre for the adventure.This is the first leg of our trip.  Stay tuned for the next installment.

Here is a photo of JD and me.  I'm the one on the right.

Isla Coronado is one of the most picturesque anchorages around.  Muy Bonita.

Finding Isla Coronado is more difficult at night.  An osprey had constructed a nest on the solar panel and in front of the navigation light.

A tremendous collection of beach treasures are kept in this old building on Isla San Jose.
The structure are part of ruins from an old salt mining operation.

A fixer upper

People and goats in boats  It is the way of things in San Evaristo

This bolt should be firmly attached to the top of the main furler.  It snapped (corroded).  No more mainsail for this trip.
Jib and spinnaker until we can make repairs back in La Paz.

Paddle boards were great for getting ashore.  This may be the last photo of the Uli board (foreground).  More on that later.

Now THAT is a nice looking cactus.

Cactus get big!

Fish camp at Mangles Solo, Isla San Jose

GoPro sunset photo.  Isla San Jose.

Thank you for reading my blog.

Hasta La Vista - Camp Nancy is over!

Camp Nancy is winding down.  

Saturday I move out of the little apartment and catch the 7AM bus up to Santa Rosalia.  

No arrival schedules, as it's Mexico. There might be cows, flooded roads, rest stops and slow trucks on long road north.  I should be there by sunset.  Just bought a tamale and downloaded Steinbeck's Sea of Cortez audio book (11 hours) for the ride.  When I get there, Rob (and Shindig) will be waiting for me!

I know it's time to go when the marina guard, in Spanish of course, tells me he saw me riding a bike across town.  Or the woman at the lavanderia where I had weekly laundry done (just one load for $5) says she saw me at an event last Wednesday.  While La Paz has over 200,000 people here, the Centro area is small enough to run into your friends and their friends. 

Every day in La Paz was another La Paz moment.  While I kept in touch with the cruising friends still at the docks, I was more of a townie.  A couple times I borrowed one of the cruisers' bikes for several days, and hurtled myself through the traffic to get across town, run little errands, and stop by for some good chile rellenos.  Traffic here is not used to bicycles, I would not recommend doing this, but it was exciting and efficient.  The rest of the time and distance was covered by foot.  My UP band which measures daily steps got a great workout.

Here are a few photos and random La Paz Moments:

My new hairdresser Moisey, and friend Lupita

Festive night out with friends Deb and John from Scot Free, Eh
Our first time at Nim, and definitely not the last!

Revisting Mama Benito's Shelter for Children and Women
Nice to see the significant improvements since last fall

Two Cellists (Jaime and me) playing Boccherini - the music was flying!

"Safety Meeting" (Dock Party) to welcome John, SV TimePiece back to La Paz

Great to see him in town, after his horrific accident earlier this year.  Check out our friends blog, on the blog links, BigLeftTurn, for more updates, and how you can help.

7AM marathon begins on the Malecon
I met a nice woman, Cindy, also an avid morning walker at this event.  We walked for an hour together in support of the runners.  

Monica from Compadre, our neighboring powerboat, cuddles her young grandson, Dylan
Es un nino guapo!  (very handsome)

I was invited to spend the day with Monica, Greg and her daughter to celebrate Monica's birthday last weekend.

It was a memorable celebration including swimming with whale sharks, dolphins, wading, lunch out at  Rancho Viejo, and....bowling.   What fun!  

One of over 50 restaurants serving up their best morsels at an annual Gastronomica Event on the beach

A beautiful setting for the night's event. Most of our friends arrived early and indulged ourselves for several hours.
We heard another group of locals arrived aroun 10PM and staying until 1AM, a rather late dinner time

Jill the Director from Se Habla...La Paz at the Gastronomica Event

Please, Please, just take a cookie!

Here Today...Gone Tomorrow

Walked to J & R Ribs one night after sunset.  In Spanish, I eagerly asked which days they were closed.  And they replied, they are open every day!! So a week later, I walked by, and the restaurant was gone.  The whole corner was torn apart, no more signage, even the picnic tables are ripped from the sidewalk.  

The Kindness of Friends

I can barely communicate with Jaime, the cellist in our trio.  Before our concert, there was a logistical challenge bringing the keyboard and stand to the Cultural Centro.  I was ready to hail a cab both ways, which is hard, in the afternoon heat.  Jaime met me at the locked Gallery on time, and pulled the case out.  Then he started heading out the door!  He gestured to me, and I ran after him carrying the stand. He pulled the big case with little wheels about a mile through the streets, alleys, and up the stairs to set it up. Then he insisted on buying me an Agua Fresca, which is flavored juice, water and ice.  Two hours later we were in our concert attire, playing in the trio. 

Walking the Malecon

I'm out early most mornings, walking on the beautiful Malecon by the sea.  I usually say Buenos Dias to each walker, and love to see a stoic man's face light up, and reply, Buenos Dias, or a shy woman respond to me.  Nice to see so many walkers, runners, cyclists enjoying their beloved Malecon.  At night, the activity continues, amidst the glow of the street lights and a half lit complex of hotels a mile across the water way.  

Music in La Paz

Finding a budding music community in La Paz is what started my love for the town.

Last night I attended a chamber music string quartet by young Spaniards. They are in town for 2 years to help elevate La Paz's musical community.  The event was 6 blocks up from my place.  I walked in the dusk at 8pm as families and traffic filled the street.  In an intimate backyard of the Alianza Francesa (French school), the quartet performed Mozart, Haydn and Beethoven on a platform under a large magnolia tree. It was a wonderful cross cultural mix, with this Spanish group, hosted by the French School, playing for Mexicans.  After the encore, we all enjoyed a bountiful setting with generous bottles of French wine, platters of bread and cheese.  Estabo Delicioso!

Campamento Nancy (Camp Nancy)

Camp Nancy, in La Paz, has been a great experience for me!  

While Rob and JD sailed Shindig north into the islands, I enjoyed having free time to really get to know La Paz.  No worries, this is a good time for all parties. They are having a great time on their Boys Trip. I look forward to catching a bus up near Loreto to meet up with Rob and Shindig soon.  

Crazy Stairways to apartment
Cuidado! (Be careful) 

Home Office under the grass palapa roof - The Internet is only passable from this little corner on the rooftop. 

A small studio, but much more room than on Shindig!
And I've already rearranged the furniture...

My apartment for the month is safe, furnished and is on the 3rd floor, with a funky rooftop patio and ocean view.  There are a couple of other apartments rented out, coincidentally to visiting professional musicians from Spain. They know I am open to their practice.  Has been interesting to have a French Horn player practicing right outside my little studio.  With the barking dogs, roosters and cars, I am getting a good dose of citylife.

There are many excellent restaurants within easy walking distances. The Malecon, La Paz's oceanside walkway, is one block from my apartment.  It is fun to join the early morning walkers for exercise at dawn, and then go out again at sunset, to enjoy the balmy, cooler air.  

Sunset from Apartment

The Spanish language school, Se Habla....La Paz, happens to be right across the street.  So off I went for a couple weeks of private Spanish lessons.  Now I really am dangerous.

Practicing with our trio started immediately; we had a performance to get ready for!  Annette and Jaime were great ensemble partners.  We learned a lot from each other musically during this time.

A young cellist friend, Emilio, generously loaned me his own cello for the full month.  The Escuela de Musica has welcomed me to come play with their orchestra as well as help young musicians with some of their solo works. 

First practices in Galerie Medusa with Jaime (cello) and Annette (viola/violin)

Entrance of Galerie Medusa, where Jaime and his artist friends kept the keyboard.
That's my borrowed bike and backpack, waiting for them to show up.

The Performance - a Live Trio playing during A Childrens Art Exhibit Opening
I can only describe it one of many "La Paz Moments"

Puedo usar el grande piano?  (Can I use the grand piano)
One of the pianos in a lecture hall,  "LIKE" 

While many of our friends have cars and are generous with offering rides around town, after about two weeks of bumming rides, hopping buses, walking and borrowing a bike, it was time for some power shopping.  A very industrious young woman, Lupita, offers a service for cruisers and other visitors as a personal assistant.  She will run errands, serve as a translator, give private Spanish lessons, clean interior of boats, and be a great guide.
I wanted some help navigating a local upholstery store.  She picked me up promptly in her little VW and after getting the upholstery project scoped out, we hat time to hit some of her favorite stores.  I wanted to see where the locals buy their gifts and clothes as well as get recommendations on hair and other day salons.  Turns out Lupita re-sells clothes and makeup that she purchases on sale in the States.  After our tour of the shopping centers, she invited me to go to her family's house, where in her small bedroom, she has clothing racks and makeup displays ready to sell.  She was excited to be going to San Diego soon, via Ensenada and Tijuana as she will be buying more items to resell.  We had a great morning together, and she'll coming with me to my hair appointment this week.
I agreed that she had a dream job.

Lupita and her clothing rack

Cinders, one of two Greeter dogs on staff at the Spanish School

Alexa, mi Maestro en Espagnol

Kids dancing in the street

Favorite Carnitas Taco stand - right around corner from music practice

20 peso snack after practice 

Made it to La Paz

We had a great passage from Mazatlan to La Paz.  With our friend, Mark, aboard, we had a decent watch schedule (sleep!) and interesting conversations.  Mark is an expert in celestial navigation and helped us understand and appreciate much more the beautiful night skies.


Once in La Paz, Nancy's "to-do" list went into action.  What, a To-do list in Mexico?  She started playing piano and cello with music friends from the Escuela de Musica and local community.  Now she has a cello to practice for the month we're in town.  There is an art exhibit event April 25th where a trio will perform.  The school has invited her to play in their weekly rehearsals after Semana Santa, the Mexican holiday breaks, and she will be accompanying soloists in their practice work.


Rob took over the Shindig social calendar, which included attending several of the seminars around the local BayFest weekend. He is starting to really enjoy the new kiteboard, and spent several days at nearby Las Ventanas to "mow the lawn" with other wind enthusiasts.  The bay is beautiful, remote and usually consistently windy.  It reminds us of our early days in Maui, when we used to windsurf.


We love the friendly community here in La Paz.  The local Mexicans and sailing community are well integrated, and it is a joy to stroll along the Malecon, day and night, enjoying the warm sea breezes, city lights and families and pets.
With three marinas, and an anchorage, the social opportunities are endless.  We've already said Hello and Goodbye to several sailboats as they either make their way north to the Sea of Cortez for island exploration, or start going home for the summer.   The friendships and camaraderie is what makes this cruising life most spectacular.

Example of our navigation - the chart plotter with Chart and Data View.  23 hours to go on our 36 hour passage from Mazatlan to LaPaz

During the calm voyage, Mark and Rob try some fishing off the aft deck
You should have seen the one that got away!

Many friendly turtles, sometimes with birds on their backs, were sighted going across from Mazatlan to La Paz

Miss Piggy kept the galley grub decent, and the on watch crew awake.

The rare Dolphin photo!!

Sunrise on the water

We flew our spinnaker on the last few hours of the crossing

Rob kite-surfing in La Ventana

Colorful Kites laid out on the beach at La Ventana

Mas Mazatlan, Por Favor

Our passage north to Mazatlan was uneventful.  We left Punta de Mita anchorage at 8AM and arrived in Mazatlan 25 hours later.  We motored mostly, with a little main sail up to stabilize Shindig.  Our watch schedules started at night, and Nancy's was 9pm - midnight; Rob midnight - 3am; Nancy 3am - 6am; and then timing the approach to Mazatlan, Rob on again.   What a nice surprise for Nancy to "wake up" at 4am and find an extra hour of sleep had been granted.  Thank you Rob!

Sea Turtle along the way 

Sunrise near Mazatlan

We motored into the Marina Mazatlan, a new location for us, past El Cid Resort Marina.  To our surprise, we were assigned a slip right next to friends Lyn and Rich on SV Fellowship.  After they helped us tie up, we were invited on a Gelato afternoon outing.   So off we went, to Old Mazatlan, via the local bus, with about 8 others.  The bus route curves down onto the beach side malecon area, and gives you a wonderful view of the seaside town, before heading inland to the heart of the city.

After gelato, we took our sleep deprived adrenalin, and made the most of it. Did some banking errands, made appointments at Tippy Toes, a favorite and very worthwhile establishment.  Click on this link to learn more about how Deborah has created a place for young woman at risk to learn a good vocation, and give back to the community.  She did this in the Middle East, and has created a similar opportunity in Mazatlan.

http://www.tippytoesmaz.com/en/about-us/the-journey-to-here.html

We relaxed with live music at Macaws, and discovered a new place, "Delirium Tacos" for dinner.  A nice open air ride back along the balmy seaside coast to the Marina finished our first day and night in Mazatlan.

Mazatlan's Golden Zone

Gelato outing in Old Mazatlan

Rob enjoys his pedicure with custom decorations at Tippy Toes salon
www.tippytoesmaz.com

After just four days in Mazatlan, we have decided to leverage the narrow weather window, and are planning departure across to La Paz.  We are hoping for a similar type of passage, 240 nautical miles this time, with one full overnight, and planned arrival by midnight the next night.  A late minute addition of crew member, Mark, who needs a quick ride over to La Paz, will make this passage more enjoyable. That means more sleep?!

Another round of  "Hola y Adios", as we said hello and goodbye to the friendly cruising community in Mazatlan.

First time Karoake: Nancy and friend rock out to Journey 

Gourmet roast chicken, stuffing, potatoes and vegies aboard SV Tortue, Mike and Melissa 

Estaba Delicioso!!!

Last minute shopping Monday in Mazatlan.  Nancy took the bus successfully from the Marina down the coastline, before turning left into Centro area.  By then, she had asked the driver to stop at the Mercado de Camarones.  This shrimp market is a block long of mostly ladies sitting under tents with coolers of shrimp of various sizes.   After a stop at the Mercado Centro, where she picked up some nice vegies and fruit, she made her way to the shrimp ladies for some bargaining.

With a backpack full of groceries, she returned to the marina via bus.  Mission Accomplished.

Beautiful produce at the Mercado Centro

Buckets of shrimp, with blocks of ice, waiting to be purchased

This woman is peeling and cleaning our 2 kilos of shrimp