On to Mainland Mexico

The Watch Schedule for our Passage to the Mainland 

It was time to go, and Shindig's departure date was set for the day after Nancy's orchestra concert. There was a nice Northerly wind forecast for our departure window, and we agreed to try to sail from La Paz straight to Isla Isabel, about 300 miles.  We were happy to have our sailing friend, Mike Gordon aboard so we could show him some new spots as well as share in the night watches and chores.  Mike and his wife, Katie, are planning to do a similar crossing in a few weeks, so that both boats can play together on the Mainland.

Mom and Dad Novak escorted us out the Channel and north towards the Islands.

Mike and Capt'n Rob ready for some strenuous sailing...Yes, they are barefoot.

We tried a new lure made by John, on SV TimePiece.  He had guaranteed we'd catch a Dorado...and that we did!

Nancy's meal plans were happily altered as we now had fresh dorado for dinners.
Turns out Mike also likes to cook (or do dishes).

A nice sunrise on our passage towards Isla Isabel

Nancy on the SUP at Isla Isabel

Isla Isabel: Described as the Galapagas Islands of Mexico
Sparsely populated by people, densely populated by birds
A panoramic shot from the top of the hill, overlooking the Fish camp and both anchorages

Blue footed Booby 

The only chick we saw during our hike.  Most birds we saw were keeping their eggs safe.

Nancy, waterbottle and FitBit at the top of the island

One of thousands of Frigate birds on the Island 

Mike and his bird friends

Deep Red Throat of a Frigate Bird 

We had to watch our step on the hike as there were dozens of Iguanas afoot

Surf and Turf aboard Shindig
Dorado, Chicken, Quinoa and Vegies

After checking in with the Port Captain in Chacala, we go exploring

First land fall on the Pacific Mexican Coast : Chacala, a pretty palapa-lined beach

Dinghy landings from the sailboat on the rocky and shell strewn beaches of Punta de Mita 

Enjoying our arrival at Punta de Mita

Musica en La Paz

Concert Fundraiser December 5th in la Paz
We set sail the next day

This season I returned to the boat more prepared to keep the music going.  I'm a bit of a contrarian amidst many musically inclined sailors here in Mexico.  Unfortunately I can't just pick up a guitar, harmonica, mandolin or keyboard, and jam.  As a classically trained musician (amateur!), I prefer to read music, and be sober when I am playing.  That keeps me away from a lot of impromptu music events!

Shindig became a musical storage vessel this fall, having at one time a full size cello, a prakticello, two violins for donation, and my Yamaha P-155 keyboard.  Rob and I had a joke that we were looking for a string double bass to round out the music collection.

Last fall I had been introduced to a wonderful Mexican state music school here in La Paz, called Escuela de Musica, in La Paz.    It is the State run Music school for Baja Californa Sur (South)

I remember just showing up one day with a dress on, and a tote-bag full of my music; piano duets, piano and violin sonatas, cello solos, quartet music,  My intent was to show them that I wanted to play and to help in any way I could.  Plus those nice practice rooms with upright pianos have fantastic air conditioning and internet! That grew into different connections with the musicians, teachers and students, who were friendly and just wanted to play music together.

The school hosts a very impressive program of concerts throughout the year.  We returned to La Paz in October just in time for their annual week long of International concerts.  There were different programs each night, ranging from the dramatic Russian music, solo pianists, string trios, and various ensembles. Rob's mom enjoyed attending several with me as well as Lupita and her younger sister. My favorite night was the solo piano with a Debussy program including the beautiful Arabesque #1.

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Being a part of the Youth orchestra had a lot of challenges, but all worthwhile.  There are language differences, limited communication on schedules - "What, we have a concert tomorrow night?!", and wondering whether I'll have a full size cello to borrow again...But everything works out well, and my only complaint is not having enough time in town.  I am very thankful for the friendships made, and opportunities to play and to appreciate music together.

Annette, Jaime and I play trio music last Spring at the Centro Cultura La Paz

Backstage before the December  concert

While some of the students are now off in Mexico City at music universities or building violins at Luthier school, there are new friends to be made.  And some of them even use Facebook!
This fall I helped lead a viola section one night, and had fun trying to conduct in Spanish. "Uno, dos....trois, quatre - wait, that's French!)
My appreciation for my conducting friends has magnified!

New friends, in the Youth Orchestra

Jaime, our dramatic cellist

Omar and Annette backstage in a Selfie

Jacob and Alberto trying out my violin

My stand partner, Lupita, husband Raymond and friend backstage

Paddling for Wendy - Hello Sunshine!

The annual Harker Board SUP day in La Paz was something we really wanted to do.  Last year we stumbled on this fun event and formed a relay team of cruisers.  Rob,  Katie & Mike from SV Pangaea and Wendy from SV Willow made up the team and did admirably.    In the all women short course later in the morning, Wendy went on to place first.  Nicely done!

Last Year: SUP Relay Team Katie, Mike, Rob and Wendy

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Wendy on Relay Race last year

We were all excited to participate again this year.

Saturday, our enthusiasm and team spirit was extra strong as we were paddling for Wendy, who is fighting her battle with cancer.

Team Pa-Shin (Pangaea/Shindig) paddles for Wendy on Willow

Wendy was not able to be here with us in La Paz this year, but her infectious spirit and optimism is felt everywhere by those know her.  We've had some fabulous times together, in secluded anchorages, at "safety meetings" in the Marina, at endless music and birthday celebrations and out with the girls in La Paz for sushi.

Wendy, you are our Hero. We are sending your unique greeting and love back, with a Big "Hello Sunshine"!!

Team strategy before the race 

Awwwww!

Double Awwwww!

Some pre race thinking. (Nancy has a new friend) 

Bus takes racers to their designated transition spots

Warm up before start of the race:  Rob in green shorts/funny white hat

Nancy warming up 

Katie on leg three

Mike finishes strong for the Team

Nancy in her Happy Place

Harker Board staff serving limonadas

View from Harker Board roof patio 

Thirty Days in La Paz

It is so easy to see how people can Pause in La Paz.  We consider ourselves somewhat "old-timers" compared to the new cruisers just arriving in town for the season. Our love for La Paz grows as we revisit favorite haunts and find new discoveries in town and in the nearby islands..  The town, while over 250,000 in population, feels small and very Mexican, with real resources, infrastructure and mostly friendly, gracious people.

Our first two or three weeks aboard Shindig were spent tackling projects, big and small in the extreme heat of October.   There was no AC for Shindig for a long while as Rob discovered many under floor pumps had failed.  The recommissioning process takes time and the boat reminds you daily that she does not like to be left alone for the summer.

Rob persevered in the heat, and certainly lost several pounds from pure sweat labor.  Thank goodness the local restaurants could serve us fresh fish tacos, ceviches, and ice cold cervezas.  Those early evenings were times to celebrate hard work needed to get ready for some serious fun.  (No fear, we ARE in serious fun mode now) With a steady stream of friends returning to La Paz, we are enjoying catching up and hearing of their summer adventures, as well as cruising plans.

High up the mast to replace the Tri-Color light that flew off during hurricane Odile

Rob working under the floor to replace one of many failed pumps

Our boat neighbors, Greg and Monica, invited us out on their panga one morning for a little ride.  We decided to go looking for whale sharks, which we have successfully found last year.  Sure enough, after an 8 mile ride across the Bay, we spotted them.  So did numerous other chartered pangas with tourists. Fortunately there were enough for everyone to enjoy, respectfully.  We quickly jumped in the water, with dive fins on, to be able to keep up with these large, but docile creatures.

Rob and Nancy swim towards the Whale Shark

Nancy and Whale shark on a swim

Nancy joined the youth orchestra rehearsals at La Escuela de Musica, where she plays cello several nights a week.  The conductor now only speaks Spanish, and despite some Spanish lessons, she still struggles with understanding.  Fortunately the language and love for music is universal and the mostly younger musicians are all very friendly, and helpful.   In return, she gives them music and special coffee candies from the States.  There have been a few violins to donate, too.  She also reconnected with several different musical friends in town, working on trios or duos.  There was an open house concert in early December, but they have decided to postpone until next Spring. Whew!

Shindig's music locker is growing!
Last count was a full size keyboard, cello, 2 violins and a Prakticello

Prakticello makes its debut
This instrument can be disassembled into a small carry on satchel 

Young boy tries out Nancy's violin

Early morning spinning and Zumba classes held in a beach side palapa supplement long morning walks on the Malecon.  While Rob listens to the morning Net and enjoys coffee with his parents, Nancy is usually at the end of her daily exercise, counting steps on her newly acquired FitBit.
It's a great way to keep motivated with her active girlfriends in the States.

Exercise shack on the Malecon 

We also had some getaways to the nearby islands.  Rob's parents joined us onboard thier power boat named Elegante,

Rob and Dad hiked to top of the range at Balandra Cove

Shindig and a beautiful anchorage

Nancy gets some paddle time on the SUP near the Balandra Rock, an icon in La Paz.

Bert and Alice enjoying their day at Balandra

How to get back to your boat without getting wet, with one SUP and  no dinghy?
Nancy paddles on Rob's back from Elegante to Shindig

Rob's new sport of kite-surfing has finally taken off with the first of the north winds.  Our friends from Vancouver, BC are in their La Paz home now and are official wind chasing buddies.  After a few windy afternoons at La Ventana, which is less than an hour away, he is harnessing the wind and ripping up the waves.  One afternoon Rob was one of over 100 kiters, plus 60 old-timer windsurfers, out on the water.  Will post more action shots very soon!

Captain Rob and kite surfing friends go for a Shindig sail

Rob launching the kite and heading for the water